MEXICO CITY
A dense metropolis with indigenous roots, CDMX is brilliantly colorful with a vibrant hyper-local food scene, whether you’re eating street-side or at a renowned restaurant.
The diversity of cuisines (Japanese was surprisingly excellent), architecture, and densely packed streets dividing neighborhoods felt reminiscent of NYC.
A mere week of visiting Mexico City left me craving another visit to continue my exploration of this culturally rich and delicious city, but here are some highlights from my experience and a Google Map with even more places on my list!
Common advice worth repeating is to avoid tap water, ice (unless its from a A+ cocktail bar), and any street food/fruit that could’ve been washed with tap if you don’t want to get a case of Montezuma's revenge.
Masala y Mais
A conglomeration of cultures on a plate is the essence of Masala y Maiz. Their menu is based on the family recipes & histories of chefs Norma & Saqib and each dish was truly unique. The Infladita Chaat (pictured here) and their take on crudo, samosas, and gorditas cannot be missed. Make a reservation!
Licorería Limantour (Roma)
We went to 3 out of the 4 bars in Mexico City on the World’s 50 Best 2022 list, and came back here twice. Ranked #4, the innovative cocktail menu includes drinks called Breakfast of Champions and Tommy Tomberry (tomatoes + strawberries) that subvert your expectation and surprise you! Make a reservation if you have 4+, especially on a weekend.
xinú
At the top of a narrow stairwell, you enter into what feels like a secret greenhouse that showcases the botanical elements behind this Mexican perfumery. It’s clear the forms of the vessels have a designer touch and are as unique as the fragrances held inside. Héctor Esrawe is behind the design of the space and products.
Kobayashi Gohan
Thanks to Japanese Mexican restaurateur Edo Lopez, the Edo Kobayashi group has as slew of restaurants, cafes and bars in Little Tokyo that bring incredible Japanese cuisine to the forefront. I want to try them all, but this counter seating only lunch spot that serves traditional Japanese Teishoku (set meal) was phenomenal.
Tacos El Güero
A local rec from a friend of a friend, this standing room only taco joint has it all: suadero, longaniza, campechano, birria, pastor, gringas—you name it. Everything is freshly cooked & chopped in front of you, then smattered on a plastic-covered plate. No website, no frills. The sign out front now also says “Tacos y Tortas”.
Pasaje Parián Roma
You can find contemporary design in a historical space in this restored passageway off Álvaro Obregón. Flanked with bars and cafes like Jarilla, a dried floral stand by Artisteria, and modern boutiques like Lucio, you’re bound to walk away with a souvenir or at least a glass of wine or sweet treat.
Rosetta Restaurant
Whether you eat in the courtyard of the restored villa or outdoors on their patio, if you love carbs you’ll have an excellent time. The menu rotates based on seasonality, but the pastas are a mainstay and a must order. Their fresh salads in their starters section were refreshing and balanced out the meal. Get a reservation and try to go with a small group so you can share - you won’t regret it!
Panaderia Rosetta
Yes, can confirm the guayaba / guava roll is excellent, but really everything is delicious. Order with your eyes when you get to the counter. The one on Colima is a few doors down from the restaurant, has more seating outdoors, and often live music. Puebla is more quaint with a smaller offering and less crowds.
Mesa Rosetta
Right next to the restaurant, tucked in under a beige and white striped awning is Mesa Rosetta. Selling tabletop ceramics, glassware, linens — some of which are used at the restaurant itself, this teeny tiny storefront is literally a gated window you walk up to from the sidewalk. My kind of window shopping.
Contramar
You’ve seen it — the half red, half green snapper aka pescado a la talla with their signature Red and Green sauce. It’s 100% worth it, along with any ceviches and tostadas that appeal to you. This restaurant is a fixture of Mexico City, and one with a healthy mix of locals and tourists. Their staff is a well-oiled machine: friendly, yet efficient. A casual, no-frills spot for lunch or dinner!
El Moro
Churros!! I mean, you must. El Moro has so many locations throughout the city that I would be impressed if you didn’t run into one by accident. I’d take this any day over Starbucks. Watch them fry a big loop-de-loop of churro dough and cut it up hot. Get the dipping sauce, or skip it. There are no rules! If you need convincing, I can’t help you.
Museo Frida Kahlo
Do not make the mistake of just showing up to buy tickets at the door…they don’t exist! Buy them in advance here and get them printed. What an intimate experience to get to see Frida Kahlo’s primary residence and gardens up close. Entry is MXN $250.00 - $270.00 depending on the day, and in order to take photos it’s an extra fee. They do watch ;)
La Rifa Chocolatería
Made even more popular after René Redzepi started using their product at noma, La Rifa’s single-origin, sustainably made specialty chocolate and cacao drinks are unique to this city. Their chocolate bars are made by hand in the back of their store—a perfect souvenir. Expect a little more grit and bitter flavors than your average hot/iced chocolate, but definitely worth a try.
Casa Gilardi
Any architecture or design lover will enjoy exploring any Luis Barragán site. Casa Gilardi is minimalist, but certainly the most colorful featuring dominant primary colors. The tours are in guided, small groups and you get to roam freely in the space afterward. You must book in advance and entry for foreigners is MXN $400.00 + fees.
Coyoacán Market
A few blocks from the Frida Kahlo museum is Mercado de Coyoacán which is a maze of artisan and tourist-trap shopping and food stalls. A few favorites include: Carnitas El Charro (pictured above), Tostadas and Churreria de Coyoacán.
Museo Soumaya
This cascading mirrored steel structure is probably the most architecturally iconic museum of Mexico City and reminiscent of the Guggenheim to me. It’s a sight to see even if you’re not into the art inside. Featuring primarily European and Mexican art, this museum holds the second largest collection of Rodin sculptures on the sixth floor. The museum is free entry.
Pujol
Named the best restaurant in CDMX, the tasting menu at Pujol was the splurge meal that anchored my trip. While you won’t find locals here, it was an experiential treat in Mexican gastronomy. Aside from the anticipated signature Mole Madre (shown above), my favorite was the rockfish and swiss chard wrap. You will need to hunt for reservations and plan in advance to book!
Selección Marsella
This is probably my favorite boutique (so far) and literally next door to Masala y Maiz…meant to be! I’m a sucker for modern, artisan tabletop + decor pieces, and their modest selection of home fragrances really show the beauty of curation in an otherwise visually cluttered shopping experience in Mexico City.